Summer often sees a rush of venues swinging open the doors just in time for the holidays, and this year is no different. But with the likes of Casa, Willi’s at The Royal, Brown Street Grill, Picada and the refresh at Karrinyup already having set the tone for another wave of openings, the summer of 21/22 is looking more delicious than ever. As we kick off 2022, here’s the best of the latest.
Bar Rogue
Continuing Perth’s ongoing affair with bars masquerading as restaurants masquerading as bars, Bar Rogue has landed doing a little of both. Arrive thirsty, and Sarah Atkinson can pour bittersweet apéritifs or prog-rock wines. Arrive hungry, and Liam Atkinson’s food can stretch from snacks to a full meal, led by cold fried chicken with caviar and backed up by a duck-egg chawanmushi with abalone and mushrooms. A fitting follow-up to Le Rebelle, with the attitude to match.
515 Beaufort St, Highgate, barrogue.com.au
Frui Momento
Two forces combine at Frui Momento, with chef Seth James and winemaker Larry Cherubino teaming up for one of Margaret River’s most anticipated venues. James helmed fine-diner Wills Domain for the best part of a decade, but anyone expecting the same kind of dégustation may be pleasantly surprised by a more low-key à la carte offer where exceptional local produce is the focus. The 50-seat venue will be complemented by a cold bar and Champagne lounge and a wide-ranging cellar.
3478 Caves Rd, Wilyabrup, fruimomento.com.au
Indigo Oscar
It might be a pop-up, but Indigo Oscar kicks plenty of goals. There’s the influence of former Barangaroo House chef Tom Haynes in the kitchen. The beachside location in Cottesloe’s emblematic Indiana Teahouse. A drinks list built for good times. The Hamptons-meets-the-tropics vibe. But the biggest draw is on the plate, where a Latin American edge and a preference for seafood keeps things fresh. There are a couple of ceviches and octopus escabeche for starters, while mains branch out into flank steak with chimmichurri or chipotle cauliflower with peanut salsa. Plus there’s Sangria sorbet with coconut and Pisco to cool off.
99 Marine Pde, Cottesloe, indigooscar.com.au
Old Young’s Kitchen
Picture Credit Danica Zuks
What’s the next step for one of the state’s best craft distilleries? If Old Young’s Kitchen is anything to go by, the answer is one of the state’s more ambitious new restaurants. Set next door to the Swan Valley distillery, the restaurant brings native accents to a globetrotting menu. Things might kick off with scallops flavoured with loquat and native lemongrass, move to kangaroo tartare with emu egg yolk, then peak with a risotto flavoured with spent OY botanicals. House spirits prop up the cocktail list, while a generous low-to-no alcohol section caters for daytrippers.
10581 W Swan Rd, Henley Brook, oldyoungskitchen.com.au
Servo
Picture Credit Thom Davidson
Gun chef Jesse Blake (Cumulus Inc; Petition) oversaw the development of the menu at Servo, and he’s knocked it out of the park. Share plates occupy space on terrazzo and tile-coated tables, with woodfired bread the anchor for snacks ranging from whipped cod’s roe with finger lime through burrata with kimchi and peach. Elsewhere there’s plenty of interesting plant-based action to keep things wholesome, plus a couple of big-format mains – think barbecued market fish with wasabi butter or a mixed shish grill. Wine errs on the bright side, while Spritzy cocktails lead from the front.
9 Electric Ln, Leederville, servoleederville.com.au
Suku
Picture Credit Thom Davidson
Market favourite Suku has finally reopened at FOMO Freo, with Ria Zulkarnaen and Nick Mailenzun designing a menu that draws on memories of Bali and greater Indonesia. The bright space specialises in just a few dishes, with the nasi Bali headlining with pulled meat, braised egg, two kinds of sambal and chicken crackling surrounding a mound of rice. It’s joined by peanutty gado gado, specials, and a clipped drinks menu repping iced Milo, tea and jelly tea for good measure.
FOMO Freo, 10 William St, Fremantle, sukufreo.com
Will St
Picture Credit Danica Zuks
With a host of Bali restaurants to his name (Mama San and Sarong among them) and Sydney’s Longrain and Jimmy Liks on his CV, Will Meyrick making Perth his home was something of a coup for the West. Even more-so when word got out he was opening a 120-seater in Leederville. Food is vintage Meyrick, drawing on influences from across Asia from the nam prik jaew bong flavouring the kingfish betel leaves, to the tandoori lamb or the syrupy black sticky rice. Roll up with a group, give the tropical cocktails a nudge, and let the good times unfurl before you.
288 Carr Pl, Leederville, willstreetperth.com
For the essential guide to eating and drinking in WA visit wagoodfoodguide.com
